With its mild winters and warm summers, the south west tends to follow the Mediterranean rule that food is to be enjoyed and not rushed. Expect the long leisurely lunches to run well into the afternoon.
Menu items are similar across the south west using ingredients drawn from the surrounding regions. Pork, sausages and mutton are regional favourites with goose and duck showing well. Black Truffles from the Perigord, to the north, are available from November to March, when armies of locals head for the forests with pigs and dogs to ‘sniff’ out the fungus growing in the root system of a particular type of oak tree.
Another gastronomic delight is foie gras, made from the enlarged livers of geese or ducks. The production methods may be disapproved of by some, but this delicacy remains popular in the region, usually served as a starter with garnish and dips. It is an acquired taste and very filling.
One dish that epitomises the south west is ‘Cassoulet’, a rich stew of haricot blanc beans, garlic, sausage, mutton and stuffed goose-neck. A real 'rib-sticker', it is said to have first been made in the town of Castelnaudary, a garrison town and base for the French Foreign Legion, the 'Legion Etranger'.
Confit de canard (duck), d’oie (goose), de dinde (turkey) or porc (pork), is made from salted pieces of meat cooked and preserved in their own fat and sealed in jars or earthenware pots.
Every part of the duck or goose is used in various forms. The giblets and wings of turkey, geese, ducks and sometimes chicken, are cooked with haricot blanc beans, lots of garlic, onion and mushroom, all enhanced with wine.
Mushrooms play a big part in the cuisine of the southwest particularly ‘Cèpes’, are a very fleshy and tasty close relative of the field mushroom. Its flavour is quite strong and a particularly delight when served in Omelette aux Cèpes.
Charcuterie (cold meats) is very common and includes the regional speciality of goose neck stuffed with foie gras, minced pork meat and truffles. Served cold and finely sliced, it is very rich and filling.
Wild hare is another regional favourite and can come stuffed with rabbit, pork or veal with the ever-present truffle and foie gras plus the added flavour of local liqueur, ‘Armagnac’.
The rich selection of main courses are followed by grand desserts which give no quarter. Rum flavoured cakes or pastries include ‘Gougnette’, a very large sweet fritter. ‘Merveille’, also a very sweet fritter, is flavoured with Armagnac while ’Jacque’ is an apple pancake.
Cheeses range from quite mild to very strong and from soft to hard in texture. They include the blue veined Roquefort (made from sheep's milk) and Quercy made from cows milk. Cabécou, or Livernon, is made from goats milk and is at its best between June and November.
The famous village of Rocamadour produces a local cheese called Picadou. This soft cheese is wrapped in leaves and aged in earthenware pots.