Monday 18 August 2003
IT DOES EXACTLY WHAT IT SAYS ON THE BOTTLE
Despite severe weather, French winegrowers could be heading for one of their finest vintages in 60 years. The extreme weather across the country has forced an early harvest with Beaujolais already under way a month early. The Bourgogne region looks set to begin its vendange, or harvest, on September 5th, while other wine regions are becoming impatient for their organising committees to make a quick decision.
Although high temperatures have brought an early harvest, the lack of rain has slowed development of the grapes. Said Maurice Carroll of wine and travel website, winedrive.com: "The grapes are much fewer and smaller this year, which means they should be sweeter but will produce less wine. In some areas, the quality could be exceptional but the lower volume is bound to drive up the price."
Vignerons in the Cahors region were relieved when two recent thunderstorms helped swell their grapes, but just down the River Lot, the western vineyards have had no rain. A wine grower in the south west has even been prosecuted for watering his vines, something banned under normal appellation rules. Now, the Syndicat de Vin de Pays du Lot is to allow irrigation to preserve future harvests on vines less than 10 years old, but vignerons must specify which parcels of land they wish to water in advance.
Meanwhile, forest fires devastating Portugal have damaged cork trees. Added Maurice Carroll: "Cork trees are very resilient, but it takes about 40 years from planting to harvesting the first cork, so any losses could be catastrophic."
A possible quality vintage is good news for the French wine industry which is losing ground to 'New World' wines after years of poor to non-existent marketing and fragmented controls. Said Mr Carroll: "Marketing and management of the French wine industry is very divisive. Money is thrown at ill-conceived plans by the rich regions while others suffer through lack of finance. With a government that is slow to take a lead and continual petty squabbles and arguments among the dozens of autonomous controlling bodies, it is hardly surprising that the country which set the global standard now finds itself loosing its grip on a once dominant market share.
"With the inherent bureaucracy in the French system, it is difficult to see how the industry can climb out of the hole it has created".
In one glimmer of hope, the wine authorities are clamping down on labelling regulations enforcing rules that grape type cannot appear unless the wine is made entirely from that grape, and the wine must genuinely be bottled 'on the premises' if 'Mis en Bouteille Au Chateau' appears on the label.
"If only the authorities here would get together and co-ordinate their efforts, French wines could be back at the top of the list. It is this level of control and regulation which sets French wine apart from New World - only French wine does exactly what it says on bottle".
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